For a good example of improper mulching and the damage it causes, look at the Cypress in the boulevard entering Bluestem from Santa Fe. (Note that the trunks are starting to spilt) The damage you see is a result of a combination of the below:

• Deep mulch can lead to excess moisture in the root zone, which can stress the plant and cause root rot.
• Piling mulch against the trunk or even the stems of other plants, stress the trees & plants tissues. A stressed plant or tree will most likely lead to insect and disease problems.
  
• Some mulches, especially those containing cut grass, can affect soil PH. Continued use of certain mulches over long periods can lead to deficiencies or toxicities in the soil because of the high nitrogen levels created by the grass clippings and the suffocation of the micro organisms in the soil.
• Mulch piled high against the trunks of young trees may create habitats for rodents that chew the bark and can girdle the trees.
• Thick blankets of fine mulch can become matted and may prevent the penetration of water and air. In addition, a thick layer of fine mulch can become like potting soil and may support weed growth.

In closing, trees once stressed by improper mulching never really achieve their potential beauty.

Remember: If the tree had a say in the matter, its entire root system (which usually extends well beyond the drip line) would be mulched.  

The Original Red Dirt Gardener       www.reddirtgardening.com

· Will the Bulb receive the recommended amount of light?

· Proper watering is essential, will it be available?

· What will I have to do prepare the soil?

· Is this a flower that will grow in Oklahoma, in ZONE 7A?

· Are the bulbs healthy?

Be sure to buy your bulbs from a reliable source whether it is a local store, mail order or on the web. Selection based upon a lesser price may not yield the best flowers.

BULB SELECTION

The bulb itself is where all the nutrients are stored for the plant. It is therefore beneficial to the flowers that will be produced to select healthy bulbs. Keep in mind that larger bulbs may also produce larger flowers within the same variety.

Handling each bulb before purchasing will tell you a lot about the health of the bulb.

DO NOT buy bulbs that:

· Feel dry or light weight compared to the other bulbs

· Have soft spots or areas with a white powdery substance

· Do not have a firm basal plate (where the roots come out)

· Have deep cuts or blemishes

It is okay that the bulbs have loose skin like an onion and have small nicks.

STORAGE OF BULBS UNTIL PLANTING TIME

Bulbs like cool dark dry places. If your bulbs are in plastic get them into paper or lay them out on a tray until planting time. I store mine in the garage and have at times put them in the refrigerator several weeks before planting. Old rumors indicate that the cold temp will force the bulbs to bloom more. I cannot really tell if they do or not. Remember:

· Do not put bulbs in plastic bags to store them …they will have a better chance of rotting

· no closed bags…bulbs need to breath

· place them in a dark and cool place like the garage

BED PREPARATION

· Most bulbs prefer loose, porous soil because they need to have good drainage. If your soil does not drain well, improve it by adding nutrients and compost.

· Almost any soil can benefit from organic materials, especially sandy and heavy clay soils like we have.

FERTILIZATION

· Mix bone meal into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole.

PLANTING

When you buy your bulbs, look for information about specific planting depths and proper spacing for that particular variety.

· Those of us in the OKC metro are in ZONE 7A, which means that the optimum time to plant most of our bulbs will be around Thanksgiving.

· Generally bulbs are planted at a depth three times their diameter. It’s easier if you dig up a larger area at the proper depth, set them inside the hole, and then cover them.

· Several bulbs planted into one hole will give you a more dramatic effect than single bulbs per hole.

· Bulbs with different blooming times can also be put into the same hole for continuous blooming.   

The Original Red Dirt Gardener     www.reddirtgardening.com

The flowers of these Asters are so pretty, purple with yellow centers and that is about all I can say for this pesky weed.  I am sure we have all seen yards that are almost over taken by this weed. Opportunists are what these weeds are as are all other weeds. They love bare and unhealthy soil as well as dryness.  Given the chance, they will choke out ailing Bermuda in their ever ending cycle of flowering and going to seed.

How to get rid of:

Chemically

· Spray in October/November as the plant will begin seeding for next spring if you do not spray the flowers. Use a broad leave weed killer.

Organically

· Use corn gluten meal as a pre-emergent on your yard in November.

· The Aster has a very woody stem and is easy to pull in healthy soil. If the plant has seeded, be sure to carefully dispose of it not dropping the seeds into the yard.   

The Original Red Dirt Gardener       www.reddirtgardening.com

 

PLANT

· Cool season grasses can be planted through the middle of the month. Fall is the best time to plant ryegrass, bluegrass or fescue. Planted by way of seed, these grasses are good for shade areas. Remember they do require mowing through spring.

· Use this month to choose your spring bulbs as you will want to do this as soon as possible. Look for bulbs that are firm and free of disease. Wait to plant until Thanksgiving time. (see article on bulbs for tips on selection and planting)

FERTILIZE

· September brought time for the last fertilization of the fall whether you used a nitrogen fertilizer or an organic one like Sustane. Do not fertilize any more this season.

· Pre-emergent can also be put down to deter fall weeds like dandelion, henbit and that pesky weed with the little purple flowers on them that we seem to have an abundance of in our neighborhood. In fact, this little weed called a “Bushy Aster” has over run a number of yards. This Aster needs to be treated NOW with a broad leaf weed killer because they are putting down seed for spring. (For more on this pesky weed see the article on Bushy Aster)

· Organic pre-emergent can also be put down this month for those weeds winterizing themselves for spring. I use horticulture corn gluten meal twice a year with great success. It is non toxic to mammals, birds and children and does not harm the microorganisms in the soil as chemicals do. Remember your soil is alive and healthy soil promotes healthy plants and grasses.

A word of caution in selecting your pre-emergent. Be sure that it is not a Weed and Seed. The reason is, it is too late in the season to fertilize. If you do fertilize this late in the season you will most likely have brown circular patches in your lawn next spring called “brown spot”.

PRUNE

· Dead head remaining flowering plants if you have not done so to prevent disease and an unsightly appearance.

· If you have planted Wisteria and found that It did not bloom for you earlier in the season, now is the time to trim the roots.

· Ornamental and shade trees can also be pruned at this time. Remember not to make fush cuts and do not use pruning paint.

WATER

· As the weather cools, remember to continue to water as needed. It is less expensive to water deeply and less often than to water frequently for short times unless you have a red clay and no top soil. The ideal time to water is to begin at about 4am. This prevents evaporation and moisture from laying on your flowering plants for too long as this encourages disease like powdery mildew.

The Original Red Dirt Gardener

Questions may be directed to RDG at www.reddirtgardening.com